I have started to have issues with my G29 pedals after purchasing my set up 2 years or so ago. The throttle pedal was jumping when held at full throttle so i took it apart and gave it a clean with some isopropyl alcohol and also did the same to the brake at the same time as I had it in bits. The throttle is fine but now I have noticed the brake sometimes shows a slight input after it has been released. Maybe I didn't clean it well enough? I did buy a potentiometer to replace the the throttle, but without some modification to the new pot its not going to fit. The shaft size is bigger(diameter and length), the pot thread and lock nut is bigger (a bigger hole would need to be made) and the orientation of the shaft is opposite (the flat part is on the other side) My questions are 1) are there any direct replacements or good tried and tested fixes for these? 2) I'm thinking of biting the bullet and replace the brake with the TRUEBRAKE mod. Does anyone anyone have any experience with these? 3) what other modifications are there that people would recommend?
3) GTEye spring upgrade https://www.gteye.com.au/product/gteye-complete-pedal-spring-set-for-logitech-g25-g27 P.S my old G25 brake pedal used to have a bit of noise as you've described. I just set deadzone in games to about 5% to work around it.
My G29 pedals have the same issue, it wasn't until I started on iRacing that it really became apparent (as we have VRS for telemetry so could see the pedal inputs on a graph). I did try cleaning them out and whilst it did improve, it was still costing me lap time, particularly under braking. Thankfully being on PC I can mix and match so my solution was a set of Fanatec V3s. Here's a graph that shows the difference, both braking for turn 8 at Spa, should be easy to tell which one is the G29.
I was looking to find some fix for these G29 pots. TRUEBRAKE, load cells, or something similar. Just been looking at some of the Fanatec's, bit pricey but I guess you get what you pay for.
A load cell would be the best bet for sorting out the brake pedal issue, but I'm not sure you could do anything to resolve the throttle pedal apart from replacing the potentiometer as what you have already looked at. And given how potentiometers work, it would likely need replacing again in another couple of years of frequent use. I did consider those options as well but in the end I could spend good $ and lots of hours trying to fix it with the risk that I don't actually see any improvement or even end up making the problem worse.
Gamesmen sell replacement pedals for $100, or did as recently as a year & a bit ago... im on my 3rd & final set
Hi team. I've got a Logitec G29 and want to fine tune it. What software do I need to download and what wheel settings should I set? Basically I turn the wheel a short distance and the car is at full lock which is causing understeer and slowing my lap times. Cheers team.
Yeah I made changes but nothing feels different. I'm trying to improve my times. I think it will never happen.
Hi team I'm still trying to fix some issues I'm having with my G29 for GT Sport and really hope someone can help me because I'm getting ready to smash my G29 into oblivion. The issues I'm having; • Car turning full lock with minimal input on steering wheel. Less than a quarter turn on my wheel makes the car go full lock. •Constant understeer issues, and • Braking issues, either car won't slow down adequately or it will start locking up. The only assist I use is ABS. Is this just something I have to deal with using the G29, if this is the case is there a better wheel and pedals I could get to help me?
Up until I replaced my pedals a few months ago, I was having the same problem with my G29 pedals, as shown by the graph I posted previously, the potentiometer sensor on both the brake and throttle pedals wasn't giving a smooth curve, I especially had issues with 100% and 0% throttle positions (not getting full throttle when I'm at 100% and input registering on throttle when my foot is off the pedal). The only way around it I had was to configure a 10~20% dead zone at each end of travel so that I could consistently get full/off throttle. As shown by the graph, brake consistency was also an issue, most cars in iRacing don't have ABS, so as a result I found myself having to not brake as hard as grip allows as sometimes a spike from the pedal sensor would send it into lockup territory. I tried cleaning the potentiometers, and whilst that did improve the issue, it was still far from smooth. From the info others have given in here, it is possible to get kits that can change the brake pedal over to being a load cell. This would be a significant upgrade. If it is only the brake pedal you are having issues with, then that may be all you need.
Hi Blunty bit of a curious one on the brakes. If you're using ABS it shouldn't lock up, ever. Understeer issues; are you sure it isn't the car? Full lock issues I'm not too sure about but there's probably settings in the game to help change the settings for that.
Cheers guys. I made some changes using my laptop and now things are worse. I'll use what I've learnt so far and the tips from you guys to hopefully solve my problems.