Agree, I make the bold prediction that by race time I see big bad beau with a high 12 next to his name
Managed a 13.705 but nothing more I could get out of it rhetorical best Was a 13.704, only .001 diff.I can't find much more in it than that. @stucar17 yeah mate you were real quick in the meet and greet. You could be on pole. What have you got your bars set at?.. I'm Default front 2 clicks stiffer rear Edit...tried again and now 13.584 haha I think that once the tyres get hot it's alot harder getting the quick times.
That kid has something funky in his Chicken, all week i see him online and he's average. On Sunday he has his chicken and BAM he scores 25 points
I'm div 4 and got constantly in the 14's with a best of 14.475 Got Front bar full soft rear bar 4 or 5 stiffer and gave the brake bias a few to the front
14's Damn I have some work to do. I just did a run and was running mid/low 15's for about 11 laps then tyres would start letting go. I may "borrow" those bar settings for a go. It may help with front tyre wear (fingers crossed).
I managed to do a 14.0 not really sure how but my pace actually isn't bad here. Just got to tighten up the corner round the hill up the top
Front left really starts to hurt after a while i think it will be hard to get around here without taking tyres maybe twice
ok, so did a race distance last night and ran 18 laps till first stop and my Front left was down to 56% but still managed to run mid to high 14s on average over the run.....pitted end lap 19 and then ran to the end and my front left was on 61%...again with laps in the low to mid 14s as an average.... The temps do get high, but grip IS NOT an issue even though the app is saying i have a volcano on the FL. I played around with the bars a little but had a PB of 13:7 with the bars hard and then a few laps of 13:8 with the bars soft, and 1 lap with stock bars where i was .15 up on the 13:7 but blew it on the hill...So the answer to the bars is "buggered if i know" ! Personally i will go up 6 clicks all round and then soften the front as the wear starts to hit. I played very little with pressures after and lowered the FL pressure and upped the RR.....did nothing as far as temps went on the FL, was still too hot so not sure what the answer is there.....
Today i did a run (at home sick so what else was i ment to do) pitted on lap 20 with LF at 60% but times still where consistently mid to high 14's LF was getting to118* but didn't seem to affect grip.
To put those minds at rest that are no doubtly scratching there heads regarding sway bars and brake bias (since we really dont want this to turn into a tuning race). Ive done a 1.13.763 on 10laps of juice and no alterations to brakes or bars The trick here is to just drive as flat our as possible on the limit, dont understeer round turn 2 and find the throttle as soon as possible for the final turn
I should probably ask that.... is everyone practising on 60 litres? Or do some practise on a much lower fuel load? I personally turn fuel consumption and tyre wear off at the start of the week so i get an accurate baseline test of what pace can be done at the heaviest possible fuel load, this is also when i usually record my 'hotlap' videos in case anyones wondering why i occassionally go much quicker in the race then i do during my videos. I don't turn fuel/tyre wear on until Saturday where i usually run a full race simulation.
To keep bars simple if you find the car under steering in a corner (pushing not turning) you can soften the front bar (go to a smaller number) if you find the car over steering (the back trying to become the front) soften the rear bar. I think that is a simple explanation to a complicated thing. 5% of speed is set up 45% is talent and the other 50% is big balls
Brake bias: if you increase the number so take it from 56 to 60 you increase the braking force to the front brakes. This can help in turn in because it can help get the car to pitch (transfer weight to the front) helping the front tyres bight. It can also minimize rear wheel lock up as the car gets lighter in the rear under braking. I hope this helps anyone who is unsure of how it works.
In the near 600 hours i have played of project cars, i have to say that moving the bias forward just gives you more stability and understeer. Moving it back gives you more oversteer (Better turn in) and instability. There is really no turn-in advantage from moving it forward unfortunately.
In 20 years (yes I'm old) of building and servicing rally cars the rule of thumb is brake bias forward for better braking and to aid turn in with weight transfer more rear brake will help turn in by locking the rears and backing it in. It also depends on driving style (that is a big part) saying that this is a game and things happen different in the real world.
Brake bias adjustments in rally or dirt based racing is a different kettle of fish. Tarmac racing brake bias forward increases the weight transfer of the car forwards, this in turn loads up the front end and adds weight to wheel input creating understeer. Opposite effect moving rear wards. Your not wrong Ant. Your rule would apply to rally
