-- One thing every Gran Turismo fan has done at least once (and if you haven't, you should do it right now) is go into the dealership, find as close a model car to your actual real life daily driver, and try to replicate it as close as possible to the real thing. The colour, the power, the weight, or even an aftermarket spoiler - if it represents your real life car, you make sure it's represented in-game. Then, you take your daily driver out for a spin on some world famous tracks, and you think 'wow, so that's how slow my car would be down the Kemmel straight!' (I might need to get some new parts, haha). --- So here's my pitch: A fun little community leaderboard where everyone posts their best track times around a particular circuit, using their own, actual real life cars. Naturally, this would be a largely uncompetitive 'diversion' on GT6. It wouldn't be a 'series' or an 'event' in the strict sense; it'll just be a little leaderboard with people's cars and times compared. In a perfect world, I'd post a picture of the car and tell you how to 'make' it in GT6, for instance, but this is the OP so I might do it later. Here's a few baseline rules to get started: -The time trial must be done in Free Run (single-player). -No parts that are not stock can be put on the car unless your real life vehicle also has an upgraded part. -Tuning (suspension setups, diff. etc.) cannot be changed from stock settings unless you have actually tuned your real life car, and then only to 'Soft' or 'Hard' settings (unless you do track days and could do a far better job at replicating your car) -Brake bias must remain at 5/5. -No electronic aids like traction control unless your real life car has it -Tyres must be Comfort Hards at all times (this cannot be changed, even if you track your car) -Use the engine limiter to lower the car's power to your real life cars power -Add ballast to the centre of the car only to increase the car's weight, to equal your real life car's power -Added power over stock should be sought from an oil change first and foremost, and then only a Sport ECU if it's required (though, it would be a rare case that you need to add power) -To remove weight, window and bonnet weight reductions should be prioritised before full body weight reductions -Of course try your honest best to fit your real life car to an in-game car; it will VERY RARELY exactly match your car, so you need to make some educated appraisals in the pursuit of fun. ----- Your in-game car choice will determine your car's engine capacity, weight distribution and suspension package, so it is an important factor. Usually, the car that fits the aesthetic styling of your car would be most accurate, THOUGH NOT ALWAYS!: my BMW 318i looked extremely similar to the BMW M3 in game, but it wouldn't be a true representation of my vehicle to use an M Sport car. So I picked the next generation 3 series BMW instead (because it wasn't M). Conversely, the Alfa Romeo 156 actually had nearly identical weight and power to my actual car. ----- Not much can be done about torque unfortunately (Kaz said he'd like to see engine swaps in a future game... I think he said that close to a decade ago though...), so you just need to match the power. That's my pitch, so it's up to the community whether you think it's a fun activity to try yourselves! if you have a proper track car, don't hesitate to replicate that too! We could make a neat little leaderboard similar to the one they had on Top Gear. It's not about how good your time is, but just moreover the process of looking up your car's specs and the fun of comparison between other cars. The person who has the fastest real life car gets bragging rights, but having the slowest car has a different sort of bragging rights as well. =) Post your times on the Trial Mountain (reverse) circuit, and I'll add it to the leaderboards!
I have a Ford Futura '04 Wagon currently... but with the A/C not working, we are going to look at an '06 mazda 2 (demio) this weekend so I was actually thinking to buy it and put it through its paces just for kicks on GT6. I may now end up lapping TM reverse
My current 2014 VE CalaisV with a V6 doesn't have a similar representative in GT6 but my previous car was a VT Calais with the Gen III engine and is similar to the Commodore SS in GT6. Could I use that?
You definitely should! Before I bought my Boxster, I did the same exercise on GT6 back in 2014 to see how much of a difference it could be over the Pulsar. It was so unbelievably fun to drive in-game, that I knew it was the perfect purchase (& it was). Of course! This is just a bit of casual fun, so just try your best to represent your car & be honest about it. A major part of the fun is just looking around the dealerships & finding a similar vehicle. I haven't got the game loaded up, but I doubt there are Chevrolets in the dealership similar to Holdens, so I expect a lot of people to use the Commodore SS, lol For the Falcon guys, you might have to have to use the Ford Mustang GT ’05.
Make your old track car, your Celica & your BRZ it's just for fun. It's not to see how everyone's current cars stack up - just to say "this was my old car/ my current car". Because I presume your BRZ will be stock when you get it, that's fine. In fact, I'll be most interested to see what times you run, because a BRZ should be similar in time to my Boxster on paper. In regards to tyres, they are the single biggest factor for cornering speeds, so we sort of need to keep that grip consistent to have a comparison based on car characteristics. A track car should have some tuning parts on it & be faster & lighter so I think that's the best way to do it. Otherwise, it would sort of morph from 'Track your real life car in the virtual world of GT6 to see how it stacks up against the community' to 'Who can bluff their way up the tyre ladder to get the best time?" Let's just say a condition of this track day is strictly regulation road legal tyres.
Ta22 celica 70 in for ra28 celica 77. CH 1:56.289 152hp stock weight. No tuning except for lowered as real one
OP updated. I hope that's your exact car model Knuckles! Thanks for participating, and I hope you had some fun.
Forgot the oil change on 86. That being said a real oil change does not give you loads more hp, so no need for it.
I have a '91 Toyota Soarer UZ31 UZ1 V8. Can only get turbo 6 on GT6. And do I make it close to stock power as I currently don't know what mines putting out.
I'd say so, yes. I don't track any of my cars, so I've never dyno'd them. On my family's cars, I just went into carsales, found the stock car and used those figures.
Did a 1:55.672. My car is a V6 VX Commie, so set the engine to 204hp, weight to 1519kg (executive sedan)
I wasn't sure if the torque figures of the V8 would skew the data a bit, tried in an Infinity G35 which has much closer torque, same power and weight as above got a 1:55.885 so not far off.
Excellent testing out the difference that torque does. i have found that discrepancies is usually down to weight distribution and the suspension package. @its-benny-racer & @Knuckles : If you can give me the model year for your vehicles, I'll be able to add them to the table =)
OP updated. Thanks again to Knuckles and its-benny-racer for participating, and I hope you had fun remaking your vehicles! I wonder if I'll be doomed to have personally owned the slowest and the fastest car on the leaderboards forever, lol.
