ACC ACC season 01 rnd 7 **SPA 2.4hr** Jan 6th 2020

Rnd 7 of the season will be after 2 2week break for Christmas and New Years January 6th for the Blancpain Signature Endurance race, with 1 2.4hr race (144 minutes) in the same format as the real Blancpain Endurance rounds. Just a bit shorter then the real 24 hour race.




This will have a 65 minute max stint time, 2 compulsory fuel stops in the race (updated rule) there will be a 10 minute qualifying session prior to the race. You cant run any longer then 65 minutes in a stint but will need also need to stop to addfuel at least twice due to the stint limits. Fuel will be forced time so 25 seco ds for any amount of fuel added.

​

RACE/PRACTICE SERVERS PASSWORD "Season1"
Hotlap server password is "hotlap"

entry is also locked to only those on the season entry thread. All that started any rnd will be locked to the car they chose for the rest of the season.

Time scale will be 5x (all sessions) this will simulate half the real 24hour time cycle race start 4am and finish at 4pm, session times will be as below.

• Free Practice 45 minutes: 8:30pm AEDT (in game Friday 11am)
• Qualifying , 10 minutes: 9:15pm AEDT (in game Saturday 7pm)
• Race , 144 minutes: 9:30pm AEDT (in game Sunday 4am)

A reminder for all to ensure they have set a lap in the Qualifying Server and anyone not yet entered to enter in this entry thread

Please note whatever car you start your first official season race in you will be committed to for the full season.

NEW season Entries Close strictly at 6:30pm AEDT on race night.

Any entries after this are accepted for the following round. The race server will be passworded with a locked entry list so anyone not on the entry list wont get in even with the password. To be entered in for the season you must enter in the entry thread, provide a GUID in the relevant thread and also set a qualy lap in the league qualy server prior to 6:30pm on the Monday race night.
NEW FULL FORMATION LAP MANUAL START PROCEDURE
After testing the full formation manual start procedure on Wednesdays warm up races these turned out pretty good and easily manageable, ideally everyone will join the discord channel for race nights to hear any directions regarding the race start.

The general rule will be to start single file and follow the leader, you can weave and warm your tyres up here but be aware of cars ahead and behind at all times. Do your best to avoid causing any issues for others, then the second last corner of the track start to line up double file (may change for some tracks and be in that rounds thread)

Everyone should be in formation by the time the field makes it around the last turn and cars on the main straight should maintain 80kmh until the green light is given.

Anyone going considerably early enough to gain an advantage here may be given a post race time penalty. Cars behind the leader aren't allowed to back up and then anticipate the green to get an unfair run on the cars ahead of them. Same with front row cars they arent allowed to accelerate before the lights are green.

Weather Forecast
As we have just had the 1.2 update dynamic weather will be tested again over the next few weeks, we can also test driver swaps and if its functional now can run people as a team for this round and any following enduros. Yanet is currently on holidays so will update weather forecasts later.

Protests and Penalties.
For any official protests post race please see this thread for info on how to lodge a protest. This is not to be done in the race threads.

As the 1.2 update has just dropped with a pretty big changelog, we will test driver swaps and weather over the next few weeks so not all will be finalised for this round until the week of the race.

This weeks Wednesday warmup will be at Spa to give people a test prior to the round as many may be away over the next couple of weeks where we will run different combos until the Wednesday prior to the race where we will be at Spa again.

Woop woop it's the big one

Maybe a little premature to be asking about this but if driver swapping turns out to be stable, how will points work for this round?

Good question, I need to know also as I need to write the code for the tables (and I will be 2 thousand million % drunk over christmas as previously stated so possibly incapable of any thinky pain)

Glad that my family and I are still standing with all the earthquakes going on up here again this week.. Many more people have had to leave their homes...
DD2 wont fire up. Looks like the power supply is faulty.. I hope the wheel is ok. 3rd fanatec wheel base I've owned over the past 10 years and each one has had issues.. I'll be out the game for a while as I have to figure out how to get this hardware back to the US.. obviously I'm p!ssed as the expensive shipping will come out of my pocket again.. Anyway gents have good break and enjoy the rest of the championship..

That sucks mate, hope you can get an easy+quick fix! Also...stay safe!

Thanks Steve
After waiting over 2 years to replace my last faulty CSW wheel and all the headaches and expense to get the DD2 here (as fanatec don't ship to the Philippines) this one has lasted all of 3-4 months.. Anyway enough out of me or I might pop a valve

Bummer mate glad your ok in the shakes, shame about your hardware issues.

If it turns out to work I would say give each driver points, I dont know how big of an issue it would be with a mix of AM+PRO in one car as the AM will likely finish better then usual but the pro will likely be back a little. We would need each driver to run at least 60 minutes which I will need to test rules and results to see if we can see this.

Thanks Marty.. Another couple of 7.0's really gets the heart going.. Most of the buildings here including my house are not up to code. I was also parked in the car yesterday and the whole car started violently shaking. It was like being in a hollywood movie.

Anyways.. So my fanatec PSU decided to start working again and luckily my wheel is ok and not fried I am baffled though. If anyone is into electronics please shed some light if you can. I run my PC and wheel connected to a voltage regulator as we a prone to regular brown outs here and the regulator supplies a constant 220v. Yesterday the fanatec PSU & wheel would not turn on however my PC would. I checked the fuse for the regulator and it was fine and I also borrowed the fanatec PSU lead as it has a big embedded fuse and connected it to my PC and it still fired the PC up however not the fanatec PSU as it had no green light. I also checked the 6 pin plug on the fanatec PSU with a multimeter and it was outputting 0 volts. It should be 36v. I tried running it on a few different wall sockets without the voltage regulator however nothing. I checked the wall sockets with the multimeter and they are between 244-245v which is a little higher than normal. The fanatec PSU did turn on for a split second once however it then stopped again. Could it be that the PSU is only rated up to 240v..? If so why did it not work when attached to the regulator...? Anyway after a few more hours unplugged I decided to plug it back into the regulator once again which I had done many times before and bingo. Green light and the wheel fired up as per normal. It now is outputting 36v. Weirdo.. I'll keep my eye on it however I am scared to remove it from the regulator in case it goes dormant again..

fingers X all remains ok and I can have a run on 1.12

Hi mate,

some PSU’s like that have a protection mode that can be triggered by brown outs or over voltage. It is not always clear exactly what the conditions are for the PSU to exit the protection mode, as aside from voltage there may be polarity, thermal and other kinds of trigger and it will need a clean sheet on all to get it to boot again. I have no idea what kind of PSU it is but I work with touring PA systems and such things are present in all of this kind of gear. Also 245V should be fine when rated for 240V - there is a tolerance either side as most power grids have some variation.

Thanks for the info Steve. Much appreciated

I hope your right mate and it was some sort of protection going on.. Happy if it does have some added protection. Sending the wheel back and forth to the US is around $800 each way which I really don't need right now.

Id probably have a few brownouts in a 7.0 in a house built to Philippine standards. But if we had a 7.0 in Melbourne there wouldnt be much left standing either as we have no standards, just luckily we have no real quakes either.

Server is up for tonights fun runs at Spa. Will be 45 min practice and 2x 30 min races with race 2 in the dark. 2 10 min 1ualy sessions before each race and weather is dynamic again to test how its working in 1.12 and hopefully some imlrovements have been made. Time scale is 4x and its an open SA75 server so no pit stop rules as I assume they still dont work in an open server.

Its been too hot here today to test anything so I dont know how the new patch has changed anything yet.

Results from Wednesday Warmups.

Well you now have chassis flex and brake pad wear - maybe you just need to adapt to those changes.

The Porsche has the fuel tank in the front, which really impacts on the chassis flex as the fuel load changes.