So lets kick things off!! For those that feel the car handles great stock. The following will see you get the most out of the car without changing its handling characteristics an awful lot:
1) Reduce radiator from 75% to 0%. This greatly reduces drag and increases top speed at the expense of increased water and oil temperatures but given mechanical failures will be turned off there is no adverse effects of doing so.
2) Close your brake ducts from 75% to 0%. This has 2 benefits. Firstly it further reduces drag there by increasing straight line speed and secondly increases your brake temperatures. While increased brake temperatures could be a downside in some cars its very much a positive in this car as brakes are barely even in the optimal operating temperature of 400 degrees even with the brake ducts fully closed.
3) Increase brake pressure from 95% to 100%. This will increase the rate of deceleration under brakes at the expense of it being more easily to lock up the brakes. But given ABS is permitted this isn't an issue so long as you run it.
4) Set your qualifying fuel such that its just enough to last you the length of the qually session. This will ensure you get the greatest number of laps with your tyres at their optimum temperature with the least amount of weight. 20-25 litres should be sufficient. As for race fuel given that fuel will be set to real simply run a couple laps to find your average fuel usage per lap (Or simply use PCars Dash) and multiply it by the number of laps and add a couple litres for safe measure. There is no point of running less fuel and taking fuel on in the pits even if you intend to pit for tyres as refuelling and the changing of tyres doesn't happen at the same time and will therefore only greatly increase the length of your pitstop.
5) Final drive. This is dependent on the track but from what I've seen there will be no need to shorten them (left). However on several tracks you will be better off lengthening them by 1 or 2 notches (right). For both better fuel economy and greater top speed. Namely Hockenheim and Watkins Glen.
6) Tyre pressures. No one will be able say exactly what tyre pressures will be best for the car as it varies from track to track and from person to person what is important to know is that you want to have them as low as possible while keeping them in the optimal tyre temperature. Lower tyre pressures increase contact area, thereby increasing grip and reducing the rate of wear. The optimal tyre temperature is between 90 and 100 degrees. Simply increase tyre pressure to reduce temp and decrease it to increase temp until all tyres lie in the optimal tyre temperature range.
7) Camber. This is somewhat personal preference but in all cases should be reduced from its default 2.9 front and 1.9 rear. The lower your camber the better acceleration and top speed you can achieve at the expense of cornering. This speed advantage had been reduced in patch 8.0 but is still a sizeable advantage. I personally run 1.2 on the fronts and 0.3 on the rear.
8) Aero. This is very much a balancing act and is very track dependent. Given your limited as to what values you can set the rear wing to, its probably best if you experiment with this yourselves. You want it such that its as low as possible without excessive oversteer out of corners. From experience no downforce is never wise and I wouldn't go lower than 3.
The above should see a 1+s a lap improvement around most tracks. Further changes will see minimal gains. But settings other than what i've talked about above are outside of my expertise. I'm sure someone will offer a tune that changes every single 1 of the 100 odd settings which I would recommend that everyone tries but if its not to your liking simply revert to default and do what i've said above.
Last edited: Jan 29, 2016
